Patagonia and Shakira!

Now for an actual up-to-date post...

This past week has definitely been the best here in Argentina, if not the best of my life.  Seven of us went to El Calafate and El Chalten for 6 days during our last few days of summer, and could not have had a more action-packed week!  Eli and I flew out Saturday and had a lazy day while the rest followed on Sunday.  We spent that day getting acquainted with El Calafate and planning out our week.  We went to a small ecological reserve where we saw real, wild flamingos!  Monday we went on a mini-trek to Perito Moreno Glacier.  We took a bus from our hostel out to a boat that took us to the glacier, which is the most beautiful thing I have ever seen in my life.  We strapped on some crampons to help us climb on the glacier and walked around on it for about two hours, stopping to take photos about every two minutes.  I was surprised that I was far too overdressed for the hike, really all I needed was my hoodie.  At the very end we indulged in some whiskey chilled with glacier ice and a couple of alfajores (delicious chocolate-covered sandwich like cookies) and simply gazed around in amazement.  We were able to see some chunks of ice break off of the glacier, and every time it sounded like some sort of giant stampede or explosion.  Luckily I learned that the glacier breaking apart is not due to global warming!

We spent Tuesday and Wednesday in El Chalten, a small town that basically depends on nature-loving tourists for its survival.  Tuesday we hiked about 14 miles to different viewpoints of the Cerro Torre glacier and ate lunch across a tiny lake from it.  That night I had the best steak I have EVER eaten for 38 pesos (less than 10 dollars!) followed by a warm brownie with dulce de leche and vanilla ice cream!  This was also by far the most well-deserved meal on earth.  Our goal for the next day was to hike all the way to the farthest viewing-point of Fitz Roy, but instead just three of us made it to the second stop.  We were probably the least in-shape group of people on the trails, and it definitely showed the next day.  We were definitely the luckiest group that day, though because we had the most incredible view of Fitz Roy that is apparently a very rare occurrence.  The view from the mirador was breath-taking and could not have been more perfect.  That hike was another difficult 10 miles, but I have never been more proud of myself for surviving those two days.  Everyone slept on the way back and we went out for an amazing celebratory pizza afterwards.  There was little time to rest before our horseback ride on Thursday, but even though I was exhausted I could not have been more excited.

Hannah and I have been talking about going horseback riding since our arrival in Buenos Aires, and we finally got our wish!  We headed out to an estancia Thursday where we enjoyed some delicious pastries and tea before riding the horses.  My horse, Miguel, was incredibly sweet, but only had two speeds: slow and slower.  No matter how many times I kicked he was reluctant to trot, and we definitely held up the group.  We went to a viewing point of Perito Moreno glacier and continued for two more hours before stopping to enjoy a delicious barbecue.  Our gauchos brought the fixings for amazing choripan sandwiches, complete with caramelized onions and a mushroom they picked up off the ground on our trip!  On the return trip we saw a herd of WILD horses, which was absolutely incredible.  All were black except a mare and her baby, an amazingly cute pair.  We also saw a number of different birds: swans, condors, eagles, and unfortunately some sheep carcasses.  Upon our return the pony that one of the mares left behind greeted us at the gate, desperate for some lunch.  She checked every horse that passed by to see which one was her mom, suuuper adorable!  We returned to our hostel and had a nice, quiet night and spent Friday enjoying our last ice cream cone of the week (we had about 5 since it was the best ice cream ever!)

Yesterday we went to the Shakira concert!  Ziggy Marley opened for her, which was great because he played a number of his dad's songs.  And of course Shakira herself was INCREDIBLE!  I've decided she is the most beautiful woman on earth, and could not have been happier to see her live.  She has the most amazing dance moves and her voice is astounding.  It was the perfect end to the perfect week...we'll see what Argentina has in store for me next!